In 2022, Grand Seiko unveiled the groundbreaking Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon. This innovative timepiece combined a tourbillon and constant-force mechanism as one unit on a single axis, marking a historic milestone for Grand Seiko and garnering universal acclaim, including winning the Chronometry Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. At Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024, the Kodo legacy continues with a subtle new approach to the design, this time inspired by daybreak.
The original Kodo reflected evening twilight with its intricate interplay of light and shadow, a hallmark of Grand Seiko aesthetics. In contrast, the new Kodo SLGT005 captures the essence of daybreak, highlighting the moment when the morning light first emerges. Its silver-toned movement components enhance the watch’s bright yet subtle appearance, and the inclusion of blue sapphires in the watch’s jewels, a first for Grand Seiko, perfectly harmonizes with the design by evoking the beauty of dawn.
Crafted by highly skilled artisans, the SLGT005 achieves elegant visual harmony from all angles. The open-work design not only showcases the hand-finished movement, but also embodies a key Japanese aesthetic of valuing open space. This ethos extends to the lugs, enhancing the design’s lightness and cohesion.
Using Platinum 950 for the inner case and Brilliant Hard Titanium for the outer case creates a durable yet visually appealing contrast, with some parts Zaratsu polished for a flawless mirror finish.
The Calibre 9ST1 integrates a constant-force mechanism and tourbillon as one unit on a single axis. This innovative mechanism eliminates torque loss, providing approximately 50 hours of constant-force operation and stable amplitude, ensuring high accuracy. It adheres to the rigorous Grand Seiko Standard for Constant-force, undergoing thorough testing in six positions and three temperatures over 48 hours—double the industry standard. The movement—comprising around 340 components—houses over 100 in the integrated constant-force and tourbillon carriage. A red ruby indicates seconds on the constant-force carriage arm.
The SLGT005 shares the defining feature of the original Kodo: the captivating visual and auditory experience resulting from the fusion of its two mechanisms. As the inner tourbillon carriage rotates and the balance vibrates at eight beats per second, the outer constant-force carriage synchronizes with precise one-second intervals. The harmonious blend of the escapement’s sounds and the constant-force mechanism’s pulse creates a soothing heartbeat effect set to a 16th note.
The SLGT005 comes with a leather strap crafted from a durable material, treated using traditional methods akin to those used in samurai armor. A new white color was developed exclusively for this watch, achieved through tanning with natural materials and hand-coated with layers of white urushi lacquer to impart a deep sheen and distinctive texture. Additionally, a charcoal grey crocodile strap is included with the timepiece.
The new Kodo SLGT005 is created by a select team of esteemed Grand Seiko designers and watchmakers at Atelier Ginza, the renowned studio dedicated to crafting exceptional mechanical timepieces. The Atelier Ginza logo is engraved on the movement, signifying its birthplace.
Joining the Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection as a limited edition of 20, this new timepiece will be exclusively available at Grand Seiko Boutiques beginning December 2024.
